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在这次云南之旅的第二天,我们寻访了丽江的茶马古道,体验了丽江别具特色的民间文化。

 

一路上,导游就向我们介绍了茶马古道的一些历史背景。原来,茶马古道起源于唐宋时期的“茶马互市”。因康藏属高寒地区,需要摄入含热量高的脂肪,脂肪不易分解,而茶叶能够分解脂肪,藏区不产茶。在内地,民间役使和军队征战都需要大量的骡马,供不应求,藏区和川、滇边地则产良马。于是,具有互补性的茶和马的交易,即“茶马互市”便应运而生。这样,藏区和内地出产的物品在横断山区的高山深谷间南来北往,形成一条延续至今的“茶马古道”。想到古人在原本没有路的崇山峻岭,悬崖峭壁之间,用马蹄一步一个脚印,硬是走出了一条路,来打通各个原本封闭的区域之间的经贸、文化之间的往来,让我对古人的壮举多了一份敬佩,对茶马古道多了一份景仰。

 

到了“马帮”,我们骑上了马。一队一队的马用缰绳首尾相连,形成马队,伴着系在马脖子上叮叮当当的铃铛声,缓缓地前行,向着茶马古道进发了。从前,我一想到马,脑海中浮现的景象都是王子和公主,或是行走江湖的英雄豪杰,心中满是憧憬,但真正坐到马背上的时候,又有些忐忑不安。我一度紧张之后终于在行进的颠簸中放松下来。马就这样安静的走着,马蹄在地面上发出清脆的“哒哒”的声音,像是雨点滴在池塘里的声音。蒙蒙的细雨夹杂着微风使本就湿冷的气候又增加了一丝凉意。经过一大片原野,不知名的植物映入眼帘,本是盛夏,却摇曳出了一种深秋的.意味。进入了茶马古道,马队带着我们沿着林间小路向前走,两旁葱郁的植物似乎将空气也染成了绿色,马不紧不慢的走在极窄的石路上,放眼望去是一片望不到边的苍翠,远处的拉市海倒映着蓝天白云,一派清新的景象。一路上没有导游,当地的村民用淳朴带着乡音的语言向我们介绍茶马古道的风土人情,即使有些并没有听得太懂,但是大家都微笑着,感受着这条古道上留下来的古老气息,仿佛看到了从前骡马络绎不绝的景象。

 

往回走的路上,经过了一段下坡路,即使坡度有些陡,下过雨的地面也比较泥泞,我却并不慌张,两旁高大而又深幽的树木交错着像一张大网,好像即使马没有走稳,也会大网网住,不会掉下山去。山间的空气融进了树木和青草的清香沁人心脾,一路的悠闲自在。这时,太阳在厚厚的云层中露出了半边脸,被露水打湿的一切都映出了金色的光,太阳照在脸上,暖融融的。

 

这次骑行让我对茶马古道有了了解,更多的是对骑马的收获:敢于探索,就会有更多不一样的体验。在这世界上还有很多未曾经历过的精彩,从各个角度来看世界,就会有新的发现。

On the second day of our Yunnan trip, we visited the ancient tea horse road in Lijiang and experienced its unique folk culture.

 

Along the way, the tour guide introduced us to some historical backgrounds of the Tea Horse Ancient Road. Originally, the Tea Horse Ancient Road originated from the “Tea Horse Exchange” during the Tang and Song dynasties. Due to the fact that Kangzang belongs to a high cold region and requires high calorie fat intake, fat is not easily decomposed, while tea can decompose fat, and tea is not produced in Tibetan areas. In the mainland, both civilian laborers and military expeditions require a large number of mules and horses, which are in short supply. In the Tibetan areas and the border areas of Sichuan and Yunnan, high-quality horses are produced. Thus, the complementary trade between tea and horses, known as the “tea horse market”, emerged. In this way, items produced in the Tibetan region and mainland China travel north and south between the high mountains and deep valleys in the Hengduan Mountains, forming a “Tea Horse Ancient Road” that continues to this day. Thinking of the ancients walking through the steep mountains and cliffs where there were no roads, using their horse hooves step by step to create a path to connect economic, trade, and cultural exchanges between previously closed areas, has added to my admiration for the heroic deeds of the ancients and my admiration for the Tea Horse Ancient Road.

 

Arriving at the “Horse Gang”, we mounted our horses. Teams of horses were connected end to end with reins, forming a caravan. Accompanied by the jingling of bells tied around the horses’ necks, they slowly advanced towards the Tea Horse Ancient Road. Once upon a time, when I thought of horses, the images that came to my mind were all princes and princesses, or heroic heroes wandering the world. My heart was filled with longing, but when I truly sat on the horse’s back, I felt a bit uneasy. After a moment of nervousness, I finally relaxed in the bumps of the journey. The horse walked quietly like this, with its hooves making a crisp “da da” sound on the ground, like the sound of raindrops dripping in a pond. The misty drizzle mixed with a gentle breeze added a hint of coolness to the already damp and cold climate. Passing through a large field, unknown plants caught my eye. It was already midsummer, but it swayed with a deep autumn flavor. Entering the Tea Horse Ancient Road, the horse team led us along the forest path. The lush plants on both sides seemed to dye the air green. The horse walked leisurely on the extremely narrow stone road, and from a distance, it was a verdant expanse that could not be seen. The La Shi Sea in the distance reflected the blue sky and white clouds, creating a fresh scene. There was no tour guide along the way, and the local villagers introduced us to the customs and traditions of the Tea Horse Ancient Road in simple and rustic language. Even if we didn’t understand some of them very well, everyone smiled and felt the ancient atmosphere left by this ancient road, as if seeing the scene of the endless stream of mules and horses from the past.

 

On the way back, I passed a downhill path. Even though the slope was slightly steep, the rainy ground was relatively muddy, but I didn’t panic. The tall and deep trees on both sides were intertwined like a big net, as if even if the horse didn’t walk steadily, it would still be caught in the net and wouldn’t fall down the mountain. The air in the mountains melted into the fragrance of trees and grass, refreshing the heart and making the journey leisurely and carefree. At this moment, the sun revealed half of its face amidst the thick clouds, and everything wet with dew reflected a golden light. The sun shone on its face, warm and harmonious.

 

This ride has given me an understanding of the ancient Tea Horse Road, and more importantly, I have gained from horseback riding: if I dare to explore, I will have more unique experiences. There are still many exciting experiences in this world that have not been experienced before. Looking at the world from all angles, there will be new discoveries.

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